Tom Livingstone is a 34-year-old climber and writer. Now based in Chamonix, France, he is originally from the south of England.
He has a penchant for trad, winter and alpine climbing - the bigger and badder, the better.
Tom is also an acclaimed outdoor writer, and you can read some of his published pieces here. His writing has appeared nationally and internationally, in print and online.
Sir Chris Bonington said: ‘Tom Livingstone, one of the finest climbers in the world, always using the purest techniques.’
Some of his favourite routes include Cracking Up (IX,9), The Fourth Dimension (E7 6c), Fun or Fear (ED), The Secret (IX, 9), Rare Lichen (E9 6c), Conan the Librarian (E6 6b), Divine Providence (ED), a winter ascent of the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses, The Great Game on Koyo Zom (ED+) and the North Ridge Variation on Latok I (ED+), but he's still psyched for more.
He works as an outdoor instructor, holding the Mountain Leader and Single Pitch Award, and an IRATA Level 2 Rope Access technician. Tom also gives talks and presentations (scroll down for more information).
In 2019, Tom was awarded the Piolet d’Or (Golden Ice Axe) Award for his ascent of Latok 1 with Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar. You can read his thoughts about the award here.
He is sponsored by Petzl, Mountain Equipment, La Sportiva and Julbo.
Young Alpinist Group
Tom founded the British ‘Young Alpinist Group’ in 2020. It’s mission statement is to advance the next generation of world-leading young UK alpinists. Over the course of a three-year programme, alpinists gain knowledge, skill and experience in order to progress further and safely in the mountains. Read more about it here.
Contact Tom:
tomlivingstone8 at icloud.com
Talks and Presentations
Tom has given talks around the world, from International Film Festivals to climbing clubs, and company events to Mother’s Meetings. Some of his most satisfying (and nervous) moments have been when speaking about his adventures.
Tom uses his energy and enthusiasm to share stories of climbing around the world. Of course, climbing is great fun and has taught many lessons… but it’s often the ‘other’ experiences which create the strongest memories - such as partnerships forged over years, challenges faced by bears and bad belays, and visiting countries where terrorism is ‘rife.’
Tom likes to let the pictures and videos do the talking, but is happy to make an exception for a friendly audience.
Tom’s spoken multiple times in America (Bozeman and Ouray Ice festivals), Slovenia (for the British Embassy and National Mountain Mueseum), Canada, France (as part of the Chamonix Film Festival), as a Headline Speaker at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, for the British - Slovenian Chamber of Commerce, and throughout the UK. Whether you want to hear about what makes climbing special, what businesses can learn from sports, risk management and the raw edge of alpinism, he’s psyched.
Testimonials
‘Massive thanks to Tom Livingstone for a superb talk in Shrewsbury. An utterly gripping account of world-class, cutting-edge alpinism in the Greater Ranges. Very modestly recounted, with superb photos and videos. A ‘must see’ if you ever get the chance. Amazing.'
— Adam Booth
‘Tom gave a superb illustrated lecture. One of the finest climbers in the world, always using the purest techniques.’
— Sir Chris Bonington
Contact Tom:
tomlivingstone8 at icloud.com
Kendal Mountain Festival 2019. The Sunday Headline presentation, after a panel discussion with Sir Chris Bonington, Nick Bullock and Katie Ives. Photo: Sir Chris Bonington
Tom and members of the Slovenian business community and Aleš Česen, during the British - Slovenian Chamber of Commerce event in autumn 2023.
Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, 2023. The Saturday night presentation.
The following routes have been burned into my memory - it's not about the numbers:
Shark Attack, Dent du Requin. Mont Blanc Massif. First ascent - with Rob Smith.
Edge of Entropy, Gasherbrum 3. Pakistan. First ascent - with Aleš Česen.
The Great Wall, Mt. Dickey. Alaska. First ascent - with Gašper Pintar.
Voie des Guides, Les Drus. Mont Blanc Massif. First Free Ascent - with Tom Seccombe.
No Siesta, Grandes Jorasses. Mont Blanc Massif. With Christophe Dumarest.
Massive Attack, Tengkangpoche. Nepal. First ascent - with Matt Glenn.
Sanjski Ozebnik (Dream Couloir), Triglav. Slovenia. With Gašper Pintar.
Cozzolinijeva Zajeda, Mangart. Slovenia. With Gašper Pintar.
Vol du Dragon, Les Droites. Mont Blanc Massif. Second ascent/First Free Ascent - with Matt Glenn.
Rolling Stones, Grandes Jorasses. Mont Blanc Massif. With Matt Glenn.
The Great Game, Koyo Zom. Pakistan. First ascent - with Ally Swinton.
Česen - Livingstone - Stražar, Latok I. Pakistan. First ascent - with Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar.
Fun or Fear, Mt. Jezebel. Alaska. First ascent - with Uisdean Hawthorn.
House/Anderson route, Mt. Alberta. Canadian Rockies. Third ascent - with Uisdean Hawthorn.
Greenwood/Jones route, Mt. Temple. Canadian Rockies. With Uisdean Hawthorn.
Navigator Wall, Mt. Slesse. Canada. First Winter Ascent - with Marc-Andre Leclerc.
British Route, Piz Badile. Bregaglia Alps. Winter ascent - with Gašper Pintar.
Slovak Direct attempt, Denali. Alaska. Attempt - with Uisdean Hawthorn.
Direct de l’amitié, Grandes Jorasses. Mont Blanc Massif. Winter ascent - with Tom Seccombe.
Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses. Mont Blanc Massif. Winter ascent - with Pete Graham.
Peuterey Integrale, Mont Blanc. Mont Blanc Massif. With Uisdean Hawthorn and Robert Grasegger.
Central Pillar of Freney, Mont Blanc. Mont Blanc Massif. With Tony Stone.
American Route, Aiguille du Fou. Mont Blanc Massif. With Tony Stone.
Les Ailes du Désir, Aiguille du Fou. Mont Blanc Massif. With Rob Smith.
1938/Heckmair Route, Eiger. Bernese Oberland. Both two-day (with Tom Ripley) and one day (with Aleš Česen) ascents.
Allalinhorn - Dom Traverse, Mischabel Range. Bernese Oberland. Solo.
Bonatti Route, Matterhorn. Bernese Oberland. With Olivier Gajewski.
Hornli Ridge, Matterhorn. Bernese Oberland. Swiss Alps. Solo.
South Pillar, Barre des Ecrins. Ecrins. With Joe Brindley.
Hintergrat, Ortler. Italy. With Ben Clayton-Jolly.
West Ridge, Salbitschijen. Switzerland. With Mike Thomas and Neils Ernst-Williams.
Les Barbares, Argentiere Basin, Mont Blanc Massif. With John McCune.
Changing Corners, Pointe Adolphe Rey, Mont Blanc Massif. First ascent - with Christophe Dumarest.
La Croisade, Aiguille des Pèlerins, Mont Blanc Massif. First ascent - with Symon Welfringer.
North-West Face, Aiguille de Blaitiere, Mont Blanc Massif. First winter ascent - with Rob Smith.
Cassin Ridge, Denali. Alaska. Youngest ascent - with Tom Ripley.
South-West Ridge of Mt. Frances, Kahiltna. Alaska. With Tom Ripley.
Divine Providence, Grand Pilier d'Angle. Mont Blanc Massif. With Uisdean Hawthorn and John McCune.
Leseuer Route, Le Dru. Mont Blanc Massif. With Kim Ladiges.
Pierre Allain/Classic Route, Le Dru. Mont Blanc Massif. Winter ascent - with Kim Ladiges.
American Route, Le Dru. Mont Blanc Massif. With Uisdean Hawthorn.
Supercanaleta, Cerro Fitzroy, Patagonia. Argentina. With Tony Stone.
Brenner-Moschioni, Aguja Guillamet, Patagonia. Argentina. With Tony Stone.
Pumari Chhish East, Hunza. Pakistan. Attempt - with Mathieu Maynadier.
Moonflower, Mt. Hunter. Alaska. Attempt - with Uisdean Hawthorn.
North Face Direct, La Meije. Ecrins. Attempt - with Matt Glenn and Connor Read.
Eagle Eyes Hit, Les Deux Aigles. Mont Blanc Massif. Attempt - with John McCune.
Zanskar Region expedition. India. Bad weather - with Uisdean Hawthorn and Will Sim.
Bader Valley, Torres del Paine, Patagonia. Chile. Bad weather - with Calum Muskett and Tony Stone.
K7 Central, Charakusa. Pakistan. Attempt - with Tad McCrea.
Cracking Up (IX 9), Clogwyn Ddu. North Wales.
Shoot the Breeze (IX 8), Beinn Eighe. Scotland.
The Vaporiser (VIII 8), Dubh Loch. Scotland. Second ascent.
The Secret (IX 9), Ben Nevis. Scotland.
The Charlatan (IX 9), Clogwyn Ddu. North Wales. Second ascent.
Creme de Violette (IX 9), Beinn Eighe. Scotland. Second ascent.
The God Delusion (IX 9), Beinn Bhan. Scotland.
Local Hero (VIII 9), An Teallach. Scotland.
Tomahawk Crack (VIII 8), Ben Nevis. Scotland.
Bavarinthia (IX 9), Coire an Lochain. Scotland.
Happy Tyroleans (VIII 8), Coire an Lochain. Scotland.
Immortal Memory (IX 9), Beinn Eighe. Scotland.
Rock of Ages (E7 6c), Penlas Rock. Gogarth. Second ascent.
The Good Life (E4 6a), Cloggy. North Wales. First ascent.
The Roaring Boys (E6 6b), Boulder Ruckle. Swanage.
The Bonxie (E6 6b), Pabbay. Scotland.
Russet (E6 6b), Kilt Rock. Scotland.
Jarldom Reach (E6 6b), Loch Maree. Scotland.
Polaris (E5 6b), Blacker’s Hole. Swanage.
Rare Lichen (E9 6c), Clogwyn yr Tarw. North Wales.
Space Case (E6 6b), Craig y Forwyn. North Wales.
The Great Escape (E8 6c), The Bastion. Arran.
Bastille (E6 6b), High Tor. Peak District.
Above and Beyond (E6 6b), Fair Head. Northern Ireland.
Immaculata (E5 6b), Owey Island. Ireland. Second ascent.
Skinhead Moonstomp (E6 6b), Gogarth. North Wales
The Fourth Dimension (E7 6c), Wen Zawn. Gogarth. Second ascent.
Surgical Lust (E7 6b), Scimitar Ridge. North Wales.
Conan the Librarian (E6 6b), Gogarth. North Wales
Authentic Desire (E7 6b), Cloggy. North Wales.
The 39 Slaps (E7 6b), Scimitar Ridge. North Wales.
The Trumpet Blowers (E7 6b), Scimitar Ridge. North Wales.
The Long Hope Route (E7 6b), St. John’s Head. Scotland.
My Piano (E7 6b), Nesscliffe.
Isis is Angry (E6 6b), Yellow Walls. North Wales.
Boat to Naxos (E7 6b), Huntsman’s Leap. Pembroke.
Der Anstandsstuck (E7 6b), Flimston Bay. Pembroke
Strawberries (E7 6b), Tremadog. North Wales.
Manhattan Highrise (E7 6c), Craig y Forwyn. North Wales.
Mammoth Direct (E6 6b), Gogarth. North Wales.
Barbarossa (E5 6b), Gogarth. North Wales.
Pipipnia (8b), Babala, Greece.
Dinosaure (8a+), Seynes. France. Onsight.
La Mala (8b), Chulilla. Spain.
Biografiz (8a multi-pitch), Les Fiz, France.
Golden Tower (8a multi-pitch with 1 point of aid), Tours d’Areu, France.
Badaboum (8a multi pitch with 1 point of aid), Presles, France.
