Mt. Dickey, Ruth Gorge - Alaska - 2024

In April 2024, Slovenian Gašper Pintar and I travelled to The Ruth Gorge in Alaska. We spent about a month living on the glacier, climbing on the surrounding mountains. I’d seen a photo of The Ruth in an article called ‘The Spice Factory’ in Alpinist magazine back when I was living in Owen Samuel and Rocio Siemens’s house in Llanberis around 2015. It was an inspiring article and the photos were impressive. Since then I’ve been busy, but in 2024 Gašper agreed on the trip. He’s a Slovenian weapon and a very cool guy.

We made attempts at many objectives during our time, but were usually turned back by the lack of gear. Long ribbons of neve were fun to climb… until you realised it had been 60 metres since you’d placed any protection, and there was none in sight. We did, however, get lucky and make a first ascent of ‘The Great Game’ on the south face of Mt. Dickey (2909 m) over several days. You can read more about it here.