The E3/4/5 List

There's nothing better than trad climbing in the summer months of the U.K. 

Warm temperatures, dry rock, incredible views: cragging in the mountains and above the sea with your mates is where it's at. Sitting back on the belay, arms solid with lactic custard and chalk floating in the updraft after a hard onsight… it makes me feel glad to be alive.

That is, when you're not being eaten by midges or it's raining. The British Summer can certainly be a fickle mistress. It's July, it's prime time, but as I write this the rain is hammering down. Still, the forecast looks good for tomorrow…

What you need is a list. They look decisive and they decorate your fridge. Then you can get psyched with something to work towards; a direction for your motivation.

Here's some inspiration - a few routes I’ve enjoyed, and even some I’ve fallen off. Some grades are a little off the mark and you should always make your own judgement. It’s worth building up slowly, consolidating, and only going for it when you’re sure you’re ready. There’s a few frighteners but the majority are pretty safe and pumpy.

Note: If you’re looking for E6s, visit Caff’s list here.

Pembroke

Pleasure Dome, E3 5c

Swordfish, E3 5c

Kitten Claws, E3 5c

Star Wars, E4 5c

Downward Bound, E4 6a

Salty Dog, E4 6a

Pan, E4 6a

Get Some In, E5 6a

Head Hunter, E5 6a

Just Klingon, E5 6a

The One-Eyed Man (DWS)

White Heat, E5 6a

Class of ‘86, E5 6b

South West U.K.

Immaculate Arete, E4 6a, Pordenack Point

Wolfman Jack, E3 5c, Lundy

Diamond Life, E4 6a, Lundy

Antiworlds, E5 6a, Lundy

Supernova, E5 6a, Lundy

The Cullinan, E5 6a, Lundy

Olympica, E5 6a, Lundy

Fay, E4 5c, Sharpnose

Wraith, E5 6a, Sharpnose

Swanage

Friends From The Deep, E3 5c

Ocean Boulevard, E3 5c

Mickey Mouse, E3 6a

Barracuda, E4 5c

Impending Gleam, E4 6a

Freeborn Man (DWS)

The Great Shark Hunt (DWS)

The Big Heat, E4 6a

Mother Africa, E4 6a

Wall of the Worlds, E5 6a

The Fabulous Professor Panic, E5 6a

Cave Rave, E5 6a

The Lean Machine, E5 6a

Fair Head

Salango, E3 5c

Ocean Boulevard, E3 5c

GBH, E3 6a (!)

The Hustler, E3 6a

Face Value, E4 6a

Born to Run, E4 6a

Wall of Prey, E4 6b

The Mask, E5 6a

Northern Exposure, E5 6b

Owey

Immaculata, E5 6b

North Wales

The Moon, E3 5c, Gogarth

The Assassin, E3 5c, Gogarth

Electric Blue (DWS), Rhoscolyn

Centrefold, E3 5c, Rhoscolyn

Graduation Ceremony, E4 6a, Gogarth

The Big Groove Direct, E4 5c, Gogarth

Positron, E5 6a, Gogarth

Dinosaur, E5 6a, Gogarth

Hunger/Citadel, E5 6a, Gogarth

Run Fast, Run Free, E5 6a, Gogarth

Warpath, E5 6a, Rhoscolyn

Lubyanka, E3 5c, Pass

Stroll On, E3 5c, Pass

Left Wall Direct, E3 5c, Pass

Foil, E3 6a, Pass

Roc-Ness Monster, E4 6a, Pass

Resurrection, E4 6a, Pass

Right Wall, E5 6a, Pass

Tufty Club Rebellion, E5 6b, Pass

King Wad, E5 6b, Pass

Central Wall, E3 6a, Cidwm

Heading for Heights, E5 6b, Cidwm

Non Dairy Creamer, E5 6a, Clipiau

Crimson Cruiser, E5 6a, Clipiau

Path to Rome, E3 5c, Lleyn

Byzantium, E4 6a, Lleyn

Zukator/Grasper, E3 5c, Tremadog

Cream, E4 6a, Tremadog

Vulcan, E4 6a, Tremadog

Sultans of Swing, E4 6a, Tremadog

West Buttress Eliminate, E3 5c, Cloggy

Great Wall, E4 6a, Cloggy

Great Wall, E4 5c, Forwyn

Quick Step, E4 6a, Forwyn

Space Mountain, E5 6a, Forwyn

Comes the Dervish, E3 5c, Slate

The Mau Mau, E4 6a, Slate

Slug Club Special, E4 6a, Slate

Khubla Khan, E4 6b, Slate

Poetry Pink, E5 6b, Slate

New Dimensions, E4 6a, Orme

Psychic Threshold, E5 6b, Orme

Lakes

An area where I’ve not done loads of summer rock climbing - consult the locals and as soon as it’s dry I’m psyched to go climbing here. 

Scotland

Another area which I’ve not done loads of summer rock climbing - consult the Scots!

A Few Dollars More, E3 5c, Hoy

Hardlands, E3 5c/E4 6a, Arran

Mucklehouse Wall, E5 6a, Hoy