What Climbing Gear to Take for Alpine Climbing
Carrying on from my blog on Expedition and Alpine Climbing - Information and Beta written in 2022, I’ve created a concise list of what climbing gear to take alpine climbing. At the end of this article I also discuss ice axes, crampons and ropes.
This is obviously subjective, and you might be happy to run it out without much gear. Personally, I find it useful to have this as a checklist.
Rack for Granite Multi-day Alpine Climbs
This is a standard-to-big rack for alpine climbing on a big granite route in winter, with an average amount of mixed, ice and snow climbing. Granite takes cams well, so the rack reflects this.
2 sets of cams, from Totem black (‘0.50’) to Ultralight Camalot ‘3.’
1 set of micro cams.
1 small set of ultralight wires/stoppers, like the Halfnuts, size 1 - 8.
1 small set of pegs/pitons, like a Petzl V Conique, Universel, Rocher Mixte, Livanos and a Bird Beak (‘Pecker’).
5 slings (2x Petzl Pur’Anneau 180cm for belays and 3x Petzl Pur’Anneau 120cm normal).
8 - 11 quickdraws, with a mixture of 60cm sling ‘extender’ draws and some normal length ones, like the 17cm Petzl Ange Finesse. None of them are really short (~10cm). At least half the carabiners are a large size, like the Ange L. If I’m climbing on a single rope I might take more extender draws, and less normal length.
5 Petzl Laser Light ice screws (2x 13cm and 3x 17cm) and a V-threader if I think it’s likely, all depending on the route.
A very small knife, or no knife if taking the Petzl Multihook.
Tat/cord. I usually take 15 metres of 5mm cord. If you might have to abseil a long way, you’ll quickly get through a lot of tat and gear.
5 Petzl Spirit SL Screwgates, for building belays, attaching yourself to the belay via a clove hitch, belaying (with a traxion, see below and here) and possibly hauling the pack(s).
2 Petzl Micro or Nano traxions, one for moving together or hauling the packs, and one for belaying the second climber.
Individual gear: Petzl Reverso belay plate and screwgate, 2 prussiks and a loose Ange S carabiner.
I will tailor this to the difficulty of the route, expected duration, expected descent, and other factors. When alpine climbing, I don’t take a Connect Adjust or GriGri. As mentioned, I’ll usually take more large sized carabiners (like the Petzl Ange L) and fewer small biners (like the Ange S). This is because you’ll always be wearing gloves in winter, so will need larger biners to avoid dropping them.
I might add a couple of loose carabiners for extra stuff, or some stubby and long ice screws.
I’ve taken this type of rack on multi-day winter alpine routes in Alaska and across the Alps. In the Greater Ranges I might slim it down a little, but on Tengkangpoche I think we took even more than this!
I don’t take bolts or a drill.
Rolling Stones, Grandes Jorasses. Photo: Matt Glenn
The Great Game, Koyo Zom, Pakistan. Photo: Ally Swinton
Rack for Limestone Multi-day Alpine Climbs
This is a standard-to-big rack for alpine climbing on a big limestone route in winter, with an average amount of mixed, ice and snow climbing:
(The main difference is that limestone takes more pegs and wires; a few less cams; and more slings for extending gear).
1.5 sets of cams Totem black (‘0.50’) to Ultralight Camalot size 3.
1 set of micro cams.
1.5 sets of ultralight wires.
2 sets of pegs, like three each of the Petzl V Conique, Universel, Rocher Mixte, Livanos and Bird Beaks (‘Pecker’). Peg hammer optional.
6 slings (2x Petzl Pur’Anneau 180cm for belays and 4x Petzl Pur’Anneau 120cm normal).
10 - 15 quickdraws, with a mixture of 60cm sling ‘extender’ draws and some normal length ones, like the 17cm Petzl Ange Finesse. None of them are really short (~10cm). At least half the carabiners are a large size, like the Ange L. If I’m climbing on a single rope I might take more extender draws, and less normal length. But it’s nicer to have two ropes on limestone routes!
5 Petzl Laser Light ice screws (2x 13cm and 3x 17cm) and a V-threader if I think it’s likely, all depending on the route.
A very small knife, or no knife if taking the Petzl Multihook.
Tat/cord - usually I take 15m of 5mm cord. If you might have to abseil a long way, you’ll quickly get through a lot of tat and gear.
5 Petzl Spirit SL Screwgates, for building belays, attaching yourself to the belay via a clove hitch, belaying (with a traxion, see below and here) and possibly hauling the pack(s).
2 Petzl Micro or Nano traxions, one for moving together or hauling the packs, and one for belaying the second climber.
Individual gear: Petzl Reverso belay plate and screwgate, 2 prussiks and a loose Ange S carabiner.
I will tailor this to the difficulty of the route, expected duration, expected descent, and other factors. When alpine climbing, I don’t take a Connect Adjust or GriGri. I will take more large sized carabiners (like the Petzl Ange L) and fewer small biners (like the Ange S). This is because you’ll always be wearing gloves in winter, so will need larger biners to avoid dropping them.
I might add a couple of loose carabiners for extra stuff, or some stubby and long ice screws.
I’ve taken this type of rack on multi-day winter alpine routes in Canada and across the limestone peaks of the Alps.
I don’t take bolts or a drill.
Canadian Rockies. Photo: Marc-Andre Leclerc
Canadian Rockies. Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn
Tools
I will usually take Petzl Nomic axes, as they’re the best ‘alpine’ tools. The handles are juggy, they feel secure when climbing hard mixed, you can hammer pegs, and they have good purchase when plunged into the snow. They just do everything well.
If the route is really steep and sustained, I’ll sometimes take Ergonomics.
On some routes, a less technical and lighter axe may be an advantage (or having the leader take a technical pair, and the second with a lighter pair). The Petzl Quark is the best for this.
Crampons are an easier decision: I’ll almost always take Petzl Dart crampons, since they climb the best.
Ropes
For granite, I’ll usually take a single rope and tagline, like the Petzl Volta Guide and Radline. This is the best combination for climbing (as a team of two), hauling packs and rappelling.
For limestone, I’ll usually take two half ropes, like the Petzl Paso or Rumba. Limestone routes can be hard to protect and zig-zag around. If hauling, take a light haul line like the Petzl Pur Line, or switch to the single and tag system.
If you’re not sure about ropes, it’s usually better to take the thicker ones… They’re a very important and somewhat fallible part of the system.
Then again, you can just ignore the rules and take only one rope, or get three people on one half rope, or not take any ropes…
One half rope, not much gear. Photo: Aleš Česen