Rewarding Reflection
This article first appeared in the Winter 2019 (#96) issue of the BMC’s Summit Magazine.
Do trophies and alpine ascents go hand-in-hand? Tom Livingstone gives us his thoughts on recently being awarded the Piolet d’Or.
In August 2018, Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar and I made the first ascent of Latok I (7,145m) from its northern side. We climbed much of the infamous North Ridge, a feature which has been attempted by dozens of teams, and our ascent was awarded the ‘Piolet d’Or’ (Golden Ice Axe).
It’s kind for people to acknowledge the years of effort and dedication associated with Aleš, Luka and my ascent of Latok I, but the concept of awards in alpine climbing is not something I agree with.
Alpine climbing is a subjective activity; some may see a mountain’s natural beauty; others, the strength of a climbing line or the safest path. I’m still reflecting on our journey on Latok I, which pushed me to new mental and physical areas. We were lucky, and over seven days on the mountain, we shared an unexplainable, unquantifiable adventure in the mountains.
Alpinism is artistic, with high consequences, and there are no winners or losers. But to award a trophy is to signify that something is the best, which implies others are not as worthy.
The UK Young Alpinists Meet, supported by the BMC, was a two-week summer gathering for young climbers to progress their skills. I acted as an ‘older’ climber to advise and encourage. Should I award the ‘best climb?’ What is the ‘best’? There are those that recognised their limitations and asked for help, or chose to turn back on routes; they made sensible mountaineering decisions. But what about those that pushed themselves to reach the summit, but maybe took more risks?
Some view the annual Piolet d’Or award as the ‘Oscars of Climbing,’ but it has a poor history. In the 2000s, its reputation was badly damaged when it provoked competitiveness, playing on climber’s egos to embellish their ascents. It used the media to hype ascents beyond their significance, and awarded very controversial ‘alpine style’ routes (sometimes not even alpine style).
Now, the Piolet d’Or seems to be more of a celebration of climbing and meeting of friends, which I like... but why still the awards?
I respect Marko Prezelj, Rolo Garibotti and Ian Parnell, climbers who have previously been involved with the Piolets. Marko and Rolo have rejected awards, and Ian withdrew his ascent to make way for others.
To quote Marko, but to use my own trips from 2018: “I climbed in Canada, Scotland, Slovenia, Alaska, UK, Pakistan, India and America. I cannot decide which trip was the most... the ‘most what’ in fact?”
Part of me wishes to follow in their style; opinions are made by actions. But part of me just wants to go climbing.
Alongside the lack of relevance, I also don’t appreciate how the Piolet d’Or makes me feel. It plays on my human ego. I already have a devil on my shoulder at the end of a run-out, whispering, “Uh oh, you’re gonna take a big fall!” I don’t want another, offering me a golden trophy at the top.
I’m being partly hypocritical – I‘m a sponsored climber (I wouldn’t say ‘athlete,’ but perhaps that’s because I’m British). I play the game, and I post about it online. But I’ve drawn my line of comfort in the sand, and I rarely cross it. I respect the views of others – I’m sure some will value this award.
The trip to Pakistan and Latok was Luka and Aleš’s idea, so I have them to thank. During our time on the mountain, we climbed and thought as one. We developed total trust, and even if we had stopped a metre below the summit, ultimately ‘unsuccessful,’ our adventure would still have been forever burned into my memory.
I wasn’t at the award ceremony this year, which was fine by me – I was in Pakistan with good friends, climbing in the mountains.
Since Aleš and Luka decided to accept their (second) trophy, I chose to follow their example and also accept. But my heart and my head said: this is not for me. I was very tempted to say ‘no thank you’ to the award. But it doesn’t matter anymore, because I’m going climbing.