A trad climbing trip to Pabbay and Mingulay, off the west coast of Scotland, with some international friends. We discovered beautiful, pumpy trad climbing surrounded by nature, with birds and basking sharks for company.
Read MoreA short piece about Deep Water Soloing the route, ‘I Ran The Bath’ (E7/7b) with Andy Moles. The route climbs above a lake in Vivian Quarry, a short walk from the village of Llanberis in North Wales. Mixing DWS and pure soloing above the mirror-like surface of the lake made for some interesting moments.
Read MoreConan the Librarian (E6 6b) defines sea-cliff climbing at Gogarth - which is a defining part of UK traditional climbing. The route climbs from sea level to the top of Wen Zawn, via some of the steepest, wildest, juggiest, loosest rock. It’s just the best type of adventure you can have, and one of the routes I’d saved for a very long time. Together with Ben Silvestre, I’m glad we saved the route…
Read MoreI climbed a new route on Cloggy, in North Wales, and the process reminded me of why I like North Wales so much - living here really is ‘the good life!’ It’s amazing what you can find if you start looking…
Read MoreThis is the last of five short stories based around climbing, and describes a gripping time on 'Book of Ages,' Yellow Walls. A micro-wire was all I could find. The stories were first written about two years ago, and have never been published.
Read MoreThis is the fourth of five short stories based around climbing, and describes one of my 'lucky' pieces of gear: a small gold wire, which has stood the test of time (just). The stories were first written about two years ago, and have never been published.
Read MoreThis is the third of five short stories based around climbing, and describes buying my first micro-wire - a Brass Offset. These legendary minuscule pieces of gear are synonymous with hard - and bold - trad climbing. The stories were first written about two years ago, and have never been published.
Read MoreThis is the second of five short stories based around climbing, and describes a frightening trad lead, when I 'came to' high above a skyhook, about to fall off.
The stories were first written about two years ago, and have never been published.
Read MoreThis is the first of five short stories based around climbing, and describes a dirtbag climber's worst nightmare - losing gear to the sea. The stories were first written about two years ago, and have never been published.
Read MoreA visit to Red Walls should contain as much excitement as nervousness. This piece describes two days of trad climbing with John Orr and Tim Neill at Red Walls - one of the finest crags at Gogarth.
Read More