A trad climbing trip to Pabbay and Mingulay, off the west coast of Scotland, with some international friends. We discovered beautiful, pumpy trad climbing surrounded by nature, with birds and basking sharks for company.
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After living in France for three years, I’ve written a tongue-in-cheek piece about the joys and maddening moments from my time here. From la baguette to le best of, and from cheese to champions, there’s a lot to learn!
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A winter of six north face alpine climbs, then a transition into spring and trying really hard!
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A trip to the American desert: crack climbing! Christelle and I became part of the sand, the sky, and the cracks after a few weeks here.
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Running through a park on a winter equinox, I look around. The shadows lengthen at the end of the day. I soon hope to be spending the festive season with Christelle in the UK but covid and brexit threaten the trip. Traveling during these times is complicated (I remember the faff coming back from Pakistan) and climbing during winter is a rarity.
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Highly motivated, Matt Glenn and I decided to go on a last-minute alpine climbing trip to Nepal. All we had to do was find an objective, money and flights - the rest was more simple
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Climbing runs through my life like a chord. The highs, lows and lucky days have made for a rich journey, where nothing is quite like it seems and covid-19 gives pause for a new reflection
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I have only memories of some my most enjoyable and richest experiences in life. I might’ve forgotten (or ignored) my camera, phone and watch. Does everything need to be shared? Does everyone need a GoPro on their ice axe to capture the ‘extreme’ selfie?
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After climbing the Frêney Pillar on Mont Blanc with Tony Stone, I reflected on my progress, free climbing ideas, style, and why it all matters.
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A piece of writing about the encroaching fear that comes with the night, and bivvying in the mountains. A storm caught Pete Graham and I near the top of the Walker Spur (Grandes Jorasses) during a winter ascent. We slumped onto the only ledge we could find for a long, cold night…
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A short piece of writing about the ritual of coiling the rope at the end of another climbing day: tired arms and repetitively going through the motions, stacking loop over loop…
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A short piece about Deep Water Soloing the route, ‘I Ran The Bath’ (E7/7b) with Andy Moles. The route climbs above a lake in Vivian Quarry, a short walk from the village of Llanberis in North Wales. Mixing DWS and pure soloing above the mirror-like surface of the lake made for some interesting moments.
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After an eventful alpine climbing trip to Pakistan, I continued the ‘duffle shuffle’ lifestyle and then spent four months in Europe (mostly) living in my van. The simple existence of climbing, and where it takes you, is great fun. From sport to alpine to trad, and then almost to the mountains - before the corona virus arrived…
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A short piece of writing which delves deep into climbing, risk and reward. Climbing is everything, right? But what’s the point of it all?
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Conan the Librarian (E6 6b) defines sea-cliff climbing at Gogarth - which is a defining part of UK traditional climbing. The route climbs from sea level to the top of Wen Zawn, via some of the steepest, wildest, juggiest, loosest rock. It’s just the best type of adventure you can have, and one of the routes I’d saved for a very long time. Together with Ben Silvestre, I’m glad we saved the route…
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A short piece of writing about onsighting Authentic Desire, an E7 6b at Cloggy, with Alex Mason. I lured myself on with numerous optimistic, non-committal ‘maybes,’ until I was lay-backing the knife-edge arête and gunning for the top. Worth doing, and the route certainly lives up to its name.
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