Conan the Librarian (E6 6b) defines sea-cliff climbing at Gogarth - which is a defining part of UK traditional climbing. The route climbs from sea level to the top of Wen Zawn, via some of the steepest, wildest, juggiest, loosest rock. It’s just the best type of adventure you can have, and one of the routes I’d saved for a very long time. Together with Ben Silvestre, I’m glad we saved the route…
Read MoreA short piece of writing about onsighting Authentic Desire, an E7 6b at Cloggy, with Alex Mason. I lured myself on with numerous optimistic, non-committal ‘maybes,’ until I was lay-backing the knife-edge arête and gunning for the top. Worth doing, and the route certainly lives up to its name.
Read MoreMy thoughts on being awarded the 2018 Piolet d’Or (Golden Ice Axe) with Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar for our ascent on Latok 1, in Pakistan.
Read MoreI climbed a new route on Cloggy, in North Wales, and the process reminded me of why I like North Wales so much - living here really is ‘the good life!’ It’s amazing what you can find if you start looking…
Read MoreReturning to the sport climbing mecca of Ceuse was supposed to be ace - instead, it confirmed a minor injury and I looked for a change of scene. A solo of the Matterhorn’s Hornli ridge provided the answer.
Read MoreA short piece of writing about wanting to fly. Whenever I’m on a belay ledge, I look up with envy at the birds flying high above, and wish I was up there. Imagine if you could fly!
Read MoreIs alpine climbing in Canada ‘good’ or ‘bad’?! In a exploratory piece, I open the door to the reasons I climb, the motivations, and the challenges. Canada is a funny place - each time I’ve visited, it’s always been at interesting points in my climbing career.
Read MoreSport climbing in Chulilla, Spain. Trying hard, warm rock, big whippers… this is the good life!
Read MoreThree short blogs, about New Year’s Eve 2018/19, sport climbing in Spain, and Van Life.
Read More2018: Alaska, Pakistan and India. All very different expeditions, but with common themes. Good mates, soaring mountains, and a relentless, full-throttle drive to climb.
Read MoreThe highlights of 2018, from Canada to Alaska to Pakistan to India, with a few places in between.
Read MoreIn September/October 2018, Will Sim, Uisdean Hawthorn and I travelled to the Zanskar valley, in the Indian state of Jammu & Kashmir. We aimed for the north face of Barnaj II, but returned home early due to bad weather.
Read MoreA report of my expedition to the Choktoi glacier in summer 2018, with Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar.
Read MoreAdvice on how to get Pakistani and Indian visas for climbers and mountaineers. The short answer is… it’s not as bad as it sounds (in hindsight!)
Read MoreA short summary of the Exped ‘van mat’ - the comfy and catchily-named ‘Megamat Duo 10 M’
Read MoreSome detailed advice on how to keep your hands when climbing in the mountains. Having numb hands is a faff, so hopefully this will help.
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